in these picures i am signing a delivery note as we had a delivery to site of bags of plaster.  i checked the oreder  form agaist the delivery note to make sure that the correct materials had been delivered. i then took all the plaster in to the house and stacked them out of the way on pallets off the floor.

in these pictures i am building the cavity walls for the extention i had to build the outside skin first as ther was not enough room to build the outside skin as the house next door was less than a foot away from our extension. the tools i used to do this wall a trowel, level, hammer, bolster . both skins of the cavity walls were blocks as the house is going to be rendered.

in these pictures i am meauring, cutting and inserting the dacatai into the revel on the cavity wall to seal off the cavity. dacatai main purpose is to seal off the cavity so that when doors and windows are put in no damp come back through from the cavity.

in these pictures i am building a pillar to support the top of the house as we punched holes through the up stairs walls of the house sild box lintels through the holes and used acrose to hold up the walls so we could knock down the downstairs walls whilst leaving the up stairs untouched. also we put in 4 RSJ's to support the top of the house the corners of these rested on the pillar. the pillar was 9 course high and had 3 pad stones on top of it to support the steel beams. i had to keep a close eye on the gauge to make sure that the pillar and the pad stones fitted underneath tightly. we also packed the pillar with slate underneath the steels to ensure it was a tight fit. Also i had to keep it very plumb so it would set pefectly underneath where the RSJ's met as the RSJ's were bloted together.

in these picures i have just built 2 coins of the outside skin in this cavity wall and i am now running them in remembering to put wall ties in. i used a string line to lay my blocks accuretly on each course i also put pieces of batton along the bottom of the cavity to stop it filling up with compo.

in these pictures i am attaching furfix to the wall so that we tie our new extension into the existing house. also i had to dicut a line down the wall on the existing house and side in a piece of 18 damp course instead of smashing out a full cavity to continue it from th extension to the existing building i then smeared compo at the side of the dpc to seal off any remaining gap stopping moisture getting thorugh. to attach the furfix to the wall i had drill hole into the wall put the furfix agaist the wall and hammer hammer fixing to attach it to the wall. then when i build the wall i will snap off the wall ties and slide them down to the apporiate height to tie the block work to the wall.

in this photo i am using a level to tamp down the concrete on either side of the pillar as this was eaiser than cutting down the piece of wood to suit this area here as it was only 300mm long

in this photo i am using a duble sided sticky tape to stick together the two sheets of radon barrier we used as one sheet would not strech across the whole of the plot the tape is used to seal off the edges of the radon barrier to stop the radon gas seeping through an to make sure the concrete does not spill underneath the edges of the radon barrier.

in these photos  i am openin out the radon barrier so that it covers the whole of our slab and using bricks to make sure the the radon barrrier is tight around our shuttering so it would not tear when the concrete is poored on to it

in this photo i am meausring out legnth of radon barrier we need to that it would cover the whole plot and also so it will overhang the inside the in side skin of our new block wall so it can be built into th e outside skin so that the cavity is inbetween the wall is also protected

pre paring slab for concrete

here i am spreading san all over the stone so that the radon barrier would not get piereced even if a fw stones happened to be stuck up or have sharp edges this is called blinding

preparing slab for concrete

preparing slab for concrete

preparing slab for concrete

we used the wacker plate to flattern all the stone just going over the bumpy bits to get a flatter surface to put the radon barrier barrier on so that there woul be less chance of piercing when the concrete was pooer on top of it

setting out concrete

here i am just double checking that the mark i made on the wall was the sam height as our shuttering as we could not put our shuttering tight up against the wall because the some of the stones in the stone wall were large an petruded out of the wall

setting out concrete

here i am leveling the scaff board to make sure it is level so when so that when we tamped it, it would also be level

in this photo i am hammering down a scaffhold board which we used to make our shuttering for the concrete, so we could tamp it down with 1 long piece of wood right the way allong the scaffhold board so the floor would be level

setting out concrete

setting out concrete

in this photo because our new floor was joined onto an existing  one i, used a level, levelled across
onto antoher wall and made a mark 300 mm above the stone as we wanted 9 inches of concrete
the rest would be brought up to finished floor level with screed. Also i was working to a time scale as all the prep work had to be done before 3 oclock as that is when the concrete was due.